Here is a compilation of common questions we are asked about our bat houses.
Where should I put my new bat house?
Every bat house we sell comes with complete information on the best place to position a bat house and why. Without going to the length of detail in the manual here are some good guidelines. Place your bat house a minimum of 10 to 12 feet high facing South to South East. Look for a location that gets early morning sun and continues to get sunlight through most of the day, remember bats like it between 85 and 100 degrees F. Avoid being too close to trees where owls or hawks may wait for a quick meal. The side of a house, barn or on a pole is always a good option. Trees are generally (though not always) unsuccessful in attracting colonies. A few exceptions I've seen are isolated pine trees or large poplar trees with one side exposed to sunlight. With trees just remember, they provide a good climbing surface for predators and block sunlight.
How can I attract bats to my new house?
This is perhaps one of the most common questions I'm asked. Unfortunately there is no proven way to attract bats. For bats to be present they need food, water and housing. Flying insects are a good food source, water needs to be within about 1/4 of a mile. Small ponds, creeks, home garden ponds and even pools are all viable water sources. If water is not close by don't give up hope. Some bat species are prone to travel much further for food and water than others. As for housing, a good bat house or suitable roosting spot in the attic of a barn or structure is all they need to call home.
How can I tell when bats are in the house?
The best and usually first indication is bat droppings on the ground. Small numbers of bats may inhabit the house off and on as the season progresses. These small numbers may not produce much guano that could go unnoticed so check the ground closely first thing in the morning for small black dots. Another good way is to watch it in the evening. This is not a sure method though as you may pick an evening when they leave early or stay in late or when they are not there at all in the case of a few transient bats. Finally, it is OK during the day to shine a bright flashlight up into the bat house for about 30 seconds to look for bats. During the hotter time of the day they will generally be lower in the house and easier to see. However, don't make this a common practice especially for a young start up colony, if the bats feel threatened or disturbed they could abandon the house.
Can I attach my bat house to my home? (or tree, or metal building, or phone pole etc...)
Where you should put your house has been covered, and again, attaching your bat house to your home is OK. I will address some additional issues that this question brings up though. When you hang your bat house on a structure don't forget about the guano that will be generated by your new bat colony. You wouldn't want to hang the house over doors or windows or over protruding brick or stone work.
Metal buildings are fine if properly attached to the metal so the fasteners don't pull through. Also check the temperature of the house as metal will reflect and dissipate heat quicker than other materials. A larger house would probably be best as it will serve to moderate the temperature shifts better.
NEVER hang a bat house on any active service pole of any kind. Poles abandoned in place by the power company may make a good mount but you should check with the authority that owns the pole to make sure it is OK for you to take ownership of the pole. They have the right to come remove it at any time.
Is it OK to move the house with bats in it?
No, never attempt to handle or move a house with an active colony in it. It is never a good idea to handle wildlife without the proper training or equipment. While bats do not attack people they can bite if they feel threatened. Worse yet, you could disrupt the colony so it moves or even abandons young pups. The proper time to handle a bat house is during the winter when the bats are not present. If a house falls or is damaged with bats present you should seek professional advice before attempting to handle it. Your local Department of Natural Resources should have a wildlife agent able to help.
Why are your houses so large?
Our Series E (and if you were wondering we are planning more bat house designs) bat house is actually close to the smallest bat house design that BCI (Bat Conservation International www.batcon.org ) will certify. It just exceeds the minimum dimensions required to produce what their research has proven to be the best bat roost. We follow their guidelines and suggestions closely and work with BCI concerning any potential design changes or improvements to our houses. Smaller houses simply are not as effective in housing colonies.
I need to repaint my house, what kind of paint should I use?
If you need to repaint your house due to damage or just to try a different color any high quality exterior grade latex paint will work. We suggest priming first with KILZ2 water based primer before your color coat. Remember, this should be done as soon after the bats leave during the fall as possible to give the paint ample time to cure and loose its odor. Also, be sure to inspect the house closely before handling it even in the winter. Some species of bats, like the Big Brown Bat, will roost and go into a torpor (sort of a hibernation) in buildings, bat houses and even farm equipment during the winter. They can come out to feed during moderate winter periods and return to sleep again when it cools. We've seen weather in the high 70's in January in Georgia and bats feeding.
Why do you think cut grooves are so much better?
The primary reason bat house builders generally resort to a mesh or rely on "rough cedar" is due to the labor involved in mechanically grooving a roosting surface. While a mesh properly applied every time makes a suitable roosting surface it generally represents a compromise on the part of the builder and no matter how well applied is subject to possible separation. This creates a small but real potential that bats could become entangled in the mesh if it were to come loose. As for the rough cedar theory, an unsurfaced cedar board varies in roughness and the final actual roostable area inside a rough cedar house is therefore variable. Any smooth areas and large knots represent an area that bats would find difficult to cling. We made a difficult decision that we would not make that compromise but would instead use only mechanical grooves to create a consistent and reliable roosting surface. This decision required us to invest in CNC equipment to do the job.